Wednesday, August 1, 2012


Agggghh, So I know it’s been a while since I’ve updated this but I’ve still had no access to internet here in Dangbo (and even in nearby Porto Novo the internet’s pretty shoddy), and it feels like so much has happened since my last blog post. 

To start off with my living situation, everything’s been going great with my host family and living conditions.  I live on the outskirts of my village (about 15km from the capital) in a somewhat large compound surrounded by palm trees and some of the most breathtaking scenery I’ve seen in Africa yet.  It seems like every day I’m discovering new parts of what I thought was this tiny village and it never ceases to amaze me.  Today I went on a bike ride with another volunteer to explore the area and ran into a lagoon village of sorts where people get around by canoe.  It was another “Aha! THIS is why I love Africa!” moment for me.

So my host family consists of my mom, papa, a sister who is 19, two who are 11 and 8, and a brother who is 13.  My host parents actually have 8 kids, most of whom are grown and live outside the house, and all of the younger kids who live in the house are actually their grandchildren or nephews.   They’ve all made me feel very comfortable living here and I truly feel like I’m a part of the family.   It has been a little difficult to communicate at times though as my French isn’t that great while they speak it with such a heavy accent that I can’t understand them either, though we’ve all been very patient with one another.  I do have my own room with electricity at my house, although there is not running water directly in the house but within the compound and so I have to take bucket baths outside and use an outdoor latrine.  If I have to use the bathroom at night, I’ve been given a small “chamber pot” to use which I then empty the next morning , which I’ve definitely come to appreciate as overall it’s better than having to stumble in the dark to the latrine at night.  We have 23 chickens that roam the yard as well which get in the way sometimes! 

Most of training this last month has consisted of French class which at times has felt like overkill, but I know my mastering of French is going to be essential for the work I’ll be doing at post and in order to better integrate into my community so I’m trying to suck it up and get through it. 

This last Friday was a really exciting day for all of us PC Trainees because they announced to each of us where we will be posted for the 2 years after training ends in September.  I must say I’m super stoked about my assignment!!  I’m going to be posted in a small village called Cotiakou which is in the Atacora region of the country (as in where the Atacora MOUNTAINS are), just south of one of the biggest wildlife parks in West Africa, Pendjare.  I’m also just a short drive to the border of Burkina Faso and Togo.  I have yet to see it for myself obviously, but jeez, talk about beautiful!  In about a week, I’ll be leaving the south to spend a 2 week visit in Cotiakou before officially moving in in September, so I’ll give more updates and details about my post after that.  I do know that I’ve been assigned to work at the Center of Public Health in Cotiakou and will potentially be doing things like organizing women’s groups to discuss various maternal/sexual health topics, assisting with vaccinations (I know, I don’t feel qualified to do this either but this is what was handed down to me in the job description so we’ll see I guess!), giving nutrition lectures, etc., all which I’m also super excited about! 

So, I must say that I’m super jealous of all of you back home who are keeping up with the Olympic games as although my host family does have a TV, they are not even remotely interested in watching the games (Benin’s never been incredibly skilled when it comes to sports) and I don’t have the internet to keep up with it myself.  I’ve been trying to resist buying an internet key that would give me wifi anywhere because I’m on a tight budget with the money PC gives me and am also trying to go through this experience without it, but I must admit that I feel so out of touch with what’s going on in the rest of the world and particularly at home.  I’ve been able to find BBC on my radio but it’s not the best quality and they tend to cover primarily African news heavily from what I’ve heard so far. 

Also, I hope you are all enjoying your sweet corn, burgers, brats, and all of the other wonderful food summer brings in the U.S. as I would kill for any of the above right now.  Beans and rice is getting old real fast.  Tomorrow I’m having some friends over and we’re going to attempt to make cheeseburgers and French fries for my host family.  The quality of the meat is a little different here but I’m thinking at this point my tongue is going to die and go to heaven with anything even remotely up to par.  



Friday, June 29, 2012

My first week in Benin


Bonjour tout le monde! 

I’ve experienced so many changes and new things since my departure this past Saturday that I don’t even know where to begin.

Last weekend was spent in Philly and packed full with Peace Corps orientation stuff, though I did get to do some sight-seeing (saw the liberty bell and where the constitution was signed!).  I arrived late Saturday evening and upon arriving to my hotel was immediately greeted by a group of other excited PCVs (Peace Corps Volunteers) who I spent the evening eating Philly cheese steaks and having a couple beers with.  There are a total of 67 of us PCTs (Peace Corps Trainees; I know all the acronyms are confusing so I’ll try to just stick with PCV.  Technically I am not a volunteer though until I successfully complete 3 months of training and swear in on Sept. 14th). 

After about 30 hours of traveling, I finally arrived in Cotonou, Benin around 8p Tuesday evening, one iPod short of what I came in with as I somehow lost mine in transit.  Sorry dad, I can already hear you yelling through the computer screen at me for this one.  I was initially on an adrenaline rush of excitement the first night which quickly turned into hardcore jetlag which I’m still trying to get over.  The PC allowed little time for us to rest as we’ve been expected to be up and moving at 6a every day this week.  Though I’ll try to keep my complaining/gross health details to a minimum throughout my blog, I will say that I can tell I’m in for a real treat throughout the next 27 months as my digestive system is already showing signs of sensitivity and feeling completely out of whack.  I’m hoping this is just an adjustment period :/ 

On a positive note, being back in Africa has been everything and more than I expected it to be.  As cliché as it may sound, all of my doubts about PC completely vanished immediately stepping foot on African soil and I know that this is exactly where I am supposed to be at this point in my life, everything just feels right.  Though there is such a large group of us in training, everyone’s been super friendly and we all have a lot of the same interests and motivations in life and have bonded a lot over that.  All of the staff have been very friendly, supportive, and understanding as well which has been great.   I feel very taken care of and guided here so far which in some ways has been annoying, though also makes me feel very safe now and in the instance of an kind of emergency.  Benin is a relatively stable and secure country compared with the majority of African countries and they have good relations with the U.S. government, much of which was explained to us after meeting several higher ups at the U.S. embassy in Benin including the U.S. ambassador.  Very cool stuff!!  The main safety issue we have to fear here is transportation as in many developing countries it is CHAOTIC with little structure.  The main mode of transportation is on motorcyles, or “zemis”, and we happen to be the only country which PC allows its volunteers to use as they are considered so dangerous, though are really necessary to use in order to get around Benin.  We were also outfitted with our own (required) helmets and mountain bikes which I am so excited about!  The mountain bikes aren’t very practical in the city but will be great when I’m at post and have to travel to various sites and villages.

We’ve arrived during the middle of the rainy season in Benin and we’ve definitely been experiencing the brunt of that.  Yesterday morning it rained heavily and constantly for several hours which delayed all scheduled events for the entire day as the roads are virtually impassable and everything just kind of shuts down for the duration of the rain. 

Today I will be meeting my host family and will stay with them until I swear in on Sept 14th and am then assigned to what is called a “post” where I will then live for the remaining 24 months of service.  Though most of the PVCs are going to be living in the capital city of Porto Novo during training, there are roughly 15 of us Rural Community Health Volunteers which will be living in a town about 15km outside of Porto Novo called Dangbo.  The PC says that this is to get us used to living conditions which will be more similar to those that we are likely to experience at our assigned posts.  I’m dying to know where exactly I’ll be posted and what work I’ll be doing, but I won’t find that out for another month.  Until the end of training my days will be filled with language, cross-cultural, safety, and technical training. 

I’ll leave it at that for now and will try to post more updates after meeting my host family this weekend!  My access to internet right now is very limited right now, but I’m hoping that there are some internet cafes near my host family’s house. 

 I’m missing everyone back home, but rest assured that I’m having the experience of a lifetime.  I feel so blessed to have this opportunity at this point in my life.  PLEASE feel free to write me if you’d like!!  Here’s my address:
                                           Teresa Tufte
                                           s/c Corps de la Paix
                                           01 B.P. 971 Recette Principale
                                           Cotonou, Benin (Afrique de l’Ouest)

Also, if sending packages, we’ve been told NOT to have people send items through DHL or Fed EX as we are charged a VERY hefty fee on our end (between $200-300!!).  The best route is to just use USPS.  I’ve also been told that if you write various messages praising Jesus/Christianity on the package like Bible verses or “I love Jesus”, that can prevent the package from being broken into and stolen (which I find pretty hilarious but definitely ingenious). 

Au revoir du Benin J